by Dan Hutchinson
“Whale, starboard!” cries the spotter as passengers scurry to their seats. The powerful catamaran surges into life, bounding over the low, choppy swells towards the prize.
Before long 30 eager faces are leaning over the railing, pointing cameras rather than harpoons at a recuperating sperm whale, only partly visible above the water.
Having spent over an hour in the impossible depths of the Kaikoura Canyon, the living submarine, dubbed “Big Nick” now sucks in oxygen, occasionally expelling vapour and stale air from its massive lungs.
Impervious to the little creatures on the surface, the 40-tonne giant sinks head first, offers its tail fluke into the air in a single flamboyant gesture and then disappears into its dark realm hundreds of metres below.
Whales have long been a part of the history of the small South Island, east coast town of Kaikoura and one can still find evidence of this on shore at Fyffe House or the nearby whaling station which still stands after 162 years.
Nowadays, people come from far and wide, drawn by a reliable population of adolescent, male sperm whales. Other whales, including orca, pilot whales, southern right whales and other species can be seen from time to time also. The nearby 1600m deep Hikurangi Trough is something of a whale motorway running along New Zealand’s east coast, linking the cool South Pacific with the warmer waters further north.
Kaikoura also has the advantage of the Kaikoura Trench which drops sharply to over 1000m just a few kilometres from the main harbour at South Bay and linking with the Hikurangi Trough.
The geography, the currents and the plentiful fish stocks attract sperm whales all year around, giving visitors as close to a guarantee of a sighting as nature can offer. At this time of the year the annual humpback migration is also taking place along the east coast of the South Island.
The waters off Kaikoura are something of a fitness centre where adolescent male sperm whales build up their energy and strength before heading to breeding grounds in warmer, northern waters.
There seems to be something slightly mystical about being close to a whale and there is barely a whisper from the group heading off the coast aboard the Whale Watch Kaikoura boat the Whakatere. Whakatere is the Maori name for the legendary giant squid which is thought to dwell in the darkness of the Kaikoura Trench. Major submarine filming expeditions have taken place in the canyon but have so far failed to turn up what would be the first footage of giant squid in their natural environment.
The anticipation of whale sightings is enough for out group though and people scramble for the exits whenever the boat stops to view a whale. There are more than enough viewing areas for everyone.
The sea off the Kaikoura Coast is not often flat and those prone to motion sickness would be well advised to take preventative measures. Whale Watch Kaikoura uses three identical 18m catamarans which are more stable than single hull craft and trips are cancelled at short notice if the weather is unsuitable.
Whales are the superstars of the Kaikoura Canyon but when it comes to putting on a show, large pods of dusky dolphins are equally as impressive while huge wandering albatross patrol the skies above.
Other firms in Kaikoura specialise in dolphin or seal trips, including swimming with these friendly creatures, although Whale boats will stop to take in the dolphins if time allows.
To really appreciate the scale of the world’s largest birds, it pays to take a separate albatross tour, where bait is used to lure the giant birds in close. These birds are an amazing spectacle looming large on wingspans of up to three or even four metres.
You do not have to be an ardent bird enthusiast to appreciate the albatross, but for those who are there are dozens of other birds to check out, including the Huttons shearwaters which only breed in the Seaward Kaikoura Ranges.
Kaikoura is an eco-tourist’s dream and one of the country’s most popular attractions is absolutely free. The Point Kean Seal Colony is a five minute drive through Kaikoura township where an exciting landscape and a good population of New Zealand fur seals ensures plenty of photo opportunities. While seals are friendly in the water, do not be fooled by their cuddly exterior as they will give quite a bite to those approaching too close on the rocks.
Kaikoura township has a population of 3200 people and archaeological findings show humans hunted moa on the peninsula 900 years ago. Maori legend has it that Maui planted his foot on the Kaikoura Peninsula to steady himself as he fished up the North Island from the sea. Kaikoura wasn’t discovered by European settlers until Captain Cook mistook it for an island in 1770.
The town thrives on a busy summer tourist trade so there is no problem finding accommodation in the winter months. There is a range of land and sea based activities to keep a person occupied for some time including kayaking, tours of the impressive Maori Leap Cave, fishing tours, scenic flights and many others.There are a range of walks including a popular half day hike around the Kaikoura Peninsula or the more demanding mountain climb to commanding views atop Mt Fyffe.
“Whale, starboard!” cries the spotter as passengers scurry to their seats. The powerful catamaran surges into life, bounding over the low, choppy swells towards the prize.
Before long 30 eager faces are leaning over the railing, pointing cameras rather than harpoons at a recuperating sperm whale, only partly visible above the water.
Having spent over an hour in the impossible depths of the Kaikoura Canyon, the living submarine, dubbed “Big Nick” now sucks in oxygen, occasionally expelling vapour and stale air from its massive lungs.
Impervious to the little creatures on the surface, the 40-tonne giant sinks head first, offers its tail fluke into the air in a single flamboyant gesture and then disappears into its dark realm hundreds of metres below.
Whales have long been a part of the history of the small South Island, east coast town of Kaikoura and one can still find evidence of this on shore at Fyffe House or the nearby whaling station which still stands after 162 years.
Nowadays, people come from far and wide, drawn by a reliable population of adolescent, male sperm whales. Other whales, including orca, pilot whales, southern right whales and other species can be seen from time to time also. The nearby 1600m deep Hikurangi Trough is something of a whale motorway running along New Zealand’s east coast, linking the cool South Pacific with the warmer waters further north.
Kaikoura also has the advantage of the Kaikoura Trench which drops sharply to over 1000m just a few kilometres from the main harbour at South Bay and linking with the Hikurangi Trough.
The geography, the currents and the plentiful fish stocks attract sperm whales all year around, giving visitors as close to a guarantee of a sighting as nature can offer. At this time of the year the annual humpback migration is also taking place along the east coast of the South Island.
The waters off Kaikoura are something of a fitness centre where adolescent male sperm whales build up their energy and strength before heading to breeding grounds in warmer, northern waters.
There seems to be something slightly mystical about being close to a whale and there is barely a whisper from the group heading off the coast aboard the Whale Watch Kaikoura boat the Whakatere. Whakatere is the Maori name for the legendary giant squid which is thought to dwell in the darkness of the Kaikoura Trench. Major submarine filming expeditions have taken place in the canyon but have so far failed to turn up what would be the first footage of giant squid in their natural environment.
The anticipation of whale sightings is enough for out group though and people scramble for the exits whenever the boat stops to view a whale. There are more than enough viewing areas for everyone.
The sea off the Kaikoura Coast is not often flat and those prone to motion sickness would be well advised to take preventative measures. Whale Watch Kaikoura uses three identical 18m catamarans which are more stable than single hull craft and trips are cancelled at short notice if the weather is unsuitable.
Whales are the superstars of the Kaikoura Canyon but when it comes to putting on a show, large pods of dusky dolphins are equally as impressive while huge wandering albatross patrol the skies above.
Other firms in Kaikoura specialise in dolphin or seal trips, including swimming with these friendly creatures, although Whale boats will stop to take in the dolphins if time allows.
To really appreciate the scale of the world’s largest birds, it pays to take a separate albatross tour, where bait is used to lure the giant birds in close. These birds are an amazing spectacle looming large on wingspans of up to three or even four metres.
You do not have to be an ardent bird enthusiast to appreciate the albatross, but for those who are there are dozens of other birds to check out, including the Huttons shearwaters which only breed in the Seaward Kaikoura Ranges.
Kaikoura is an eco-tourist’s dream and one of the country’s most popular attractions is absolutely free. The Point Kean Seal Colony is a five minute drive through Kaikoura township where an exciting landscape and a good population of New Zealand fur seals ensures plenty of photo opportunities. While seals are friendly in the water, do not be fooled by their cuddly exterior as they will give quite a bite to those approaching too close on the rocks.
Kaikoura township has a population of 3200 people and archaeological findings show humans hunted moa on the peninsula 900 years ago. Maori legend has it that Maui planted his foot on the Kaikoura Peninsula to steady himself as he fished up the North Island from the sea. Kaikoura wasn’t discovered by European settlers until Captain Cook mistook it for an island in 1770.
The town thrives on a busy summer tourist trade so there is no problem finding accommodation in the winter months. There is a range of land and sea based activities to keep a person occupied for some time including kayaking, tours of the impressive Maori Leap Cave, fishing tours, scenic flights and many others.There are a range of walks including a popular half day hike around the Kaikoura Peninsula or the more demanding mountain climb to commanding views atop Mt Fyffe.
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